Thursday, January 14, 2010

Our days in Cairo gave us a wonderful experience to Ancient Egypt. One of our busiest days was going to Memphis, the original capital of Egypt. We visited the sight known as Dahshur to understand the progression of the construction of pyramids. The oldest one is called the Bent Pyramid because midway through it’s building the angle had to be changed from 56o to 43o in order for it not to collapse. Right next to it is the 2nd oldest pyramid with a larger base to calculate the 56o. We also visited a small outdoor museum that included a Sphinx made from Alabaster. It was beautiful. The afternoon was spent at and area called Sakkara (or Saqqara). Although I had been to the Step-Up pyramid, this place is much more. It’s really a huge archaeological site with at least two smaller pyramids, and mastabas (smaller tombs). Today we actually got to go inside one of the tombs. The entrance is very low and even I have to walk bent over. It’s steep but there are railings to hang onto until it opens up to a chamber. We walk through the chamber and continue into another shaft to walk further down into the pyramid until finally we are in one of 3 rooms. Everywhere there are pictures and texts; some still with color. Imagine these are over 4500 years old and still the color can be seen. Yes, even I made the trip down into the tomb but you can be sure I didn’t stay very long. Because it is very narrow and you must retrace your steps, some people hadn’t even arrived as I was making my way back up to the surface. It was only after the visit that our guide explained how lucky we were that the electricity worked because the last few times the power went out and it is very dark in the tomb. Probably would’ve woken up the dead if that had happened while I was down there.

Leaving Cairo we had to get to the airport by 5:00AM for our flight to Abu Simbel. However, because of dense fog, our flight was delayed 2 hours so our guide had to juggle the schedule in order to see everything on our itinerary for the day. She did a marvelous job. The area we are visiting was once Nubia. This is where most of the gold was mined in ancient Egypt to give us some of the most beautiful artifacts found in King Tut’s Tomb. Although he was not considered an important king during his time, many of the items were solid gold. I can only imagine what would’ve been in the more important kings such as Ramses II had it not been for the tomb robbers. When we finally arrived, we went directly to Abul Simbel which is actually two temples side by side - one for King Ramses II and the other to his most beloved royal wife, Queen Nefirtari. I’m in awe for two reasons. Built in the 1st century, it is the largest of 7 temples in Nubia carved into the sandstone mountain. With such precision, this was built so that twice a year (on Ramses II birthday and on his coronation day), the sun shines through the galleries and onto the faces of the seated figures deep inside the sanctuary. Fast forward in today’s modern world to the 1960’s of the building of the Aswan Dam when these two temples had to be moved to higher ground as they were threatened for the rising lake water. The US, Egypt and 12 other countries worked together moving over 10,000 pieces weighing an average of 30,000 tons of blocks of stone piece by piece and then putting it back together, 300” above Lake Nasser. This in itself was an amazing accomplishment. It was reconstructed with the same precision; the sun shines through the galleries’ twice a year but one day later due to the fact of being 300’ higher. (February 22 and October 22). I think how much can be accomplished when countries work together for an important cause rather than fighting.

We have had a marvelous time visiting Egypt. Although I was here only a year ago, it was certainly not enough. There are do many temples and so much history and so much shopping. One could get over “templed” (like going to Europe on the “church” tour). I bought a great little guide book “The Great Temples of Egypt” – it’s small, lightweight and gives a one-page description of 15 temples with great pictures too.

While on the 3-night Nile cruise, our group had a chance to relax a bit and get to know one another. We are from all over the US with very different backgrounds which makes it interesting. A few couples are traveling together but for the most part we all mingle with one another without grouping ourselves. There are some birthdays and anniversaries being celebrated. What a great way to celebrate! And Tauck really helps to make the celebration special. Last night while enjoying a Felucca (a sail boat with ancient designs) along the Nile during sunset, one of our members celebrated her 60th Birthday. While we enjoyed a choice of soft drinks, wine or beer and lots of yummy snacks, our tour director presented the birthday girl with a beautiful chocolate ice cream cake and we all sang. Tauck thinks of every detail. Many of the places we visit won’t allow cameras but Tauck provides small guides for us to have a souveniers.

Looking foward to returning to Jordan tomorrow.  I brought pictures from last year's trip to hand out to people.  Those I gave out in Egypt were so happy to receive them.  Especially the hawkers and camel riders.  Nobody ever thinks of them.  I had one guy offer me use of his camel for the rest of the day when I gave him a picture I took of him last year.  It's amazing such a small effort brings a grea deal of joy.

Tuesday, January 05, 2010

Egypt 2010


They say you can never go back but I don’t believe that. I never thought that in less than one year I would return to Egypt. The sights may be the same but there’s always something you missed before. There’s so much to see and learn here that for many it’s a life-long commitment. We left Cairo airport just in time to witness a beautiful sunset. The sky was blazing with pink, red as far as you could see. It goes down quickly. The driving here hasn’t changed one bit. As a matter of fact, driving through Cairo at night is not for the weak. We went along the ring road to avoid downtown traffic and yet it was bumper to bumper. There are bright street lights to pave the way and for that reason, drivers see little reason to put their headlights on. Headlights are used to find the exit ramp or to communicate that it’s safe for the one passing you to get in front or to avoid hitting those people taking a walk to cross the 3 or 4 lanes of highway traffic. We finally reached our hotel, the Mena House located in Giza and sits in the shadows of the Great Pyramids. It was originally built as a hunting lodge in the early 1800’s and sold in 1869 to be converted to a hotel. Today it is set on 40 acres with over 400 rooms. It was host to signing of the peace agreement between Egypt and Israel in 1979.
After a light dinner, my friends and I decided to stroll through the hotel and admire some of the beautiful Islamic design and furnishings. We passed by a private room where a party was going on so we took a peak. It was the rehearsal dinner for a Greek couple, Popi and Tossos. Before we knew it, people were taking us by the arms and inviting us in to the celebration. We danced with everyone and had a wonderful first night in Egypt.
The following morning we were off to Alexandria (ALX to the locals). It’s a 3-hour drive with not much to see so it gave us time to take a nap. As soon as we arrived, we were off sightseeing which included Cavafty’s House (Greek Poet), the Pompei Pillar and the Catacombs. It is really sad to see how much Alexandria has deteriorated over the years. Even the new buildings look old and sad. Being on the Med. Sea adds so much opportunity for visitors. This could be a beautiful jewel for Egypt with so much history including Cleopatra and Mark Anthony. We’re only here for one night and back to the Mena House tomorrow.
This morning we met our other traveling companions for Tauck Tours. There are 31 of us total. I must admit I miss our “tribe” of 20 from last year. Within a few hours everyone knew everyone’s name and we were all getting along so well.
It’s the end of the day and I know 3 names. Perhaps it’s the jetlag. This morning we visited the Great Pyramids, including the Cheops Boat. Imagine finding a wooden boat that is over 4000 years old. It was so perfectly sealed at the base of the Pyramid that when it was found in 1954, even some of the rope was still in the tomb. This time I took the camel ride to get that infamous picture in front of the 3 pyramids. Tauck arranges things to the detail. They gave us a roll of one-pound Egyptian coins for the toilets (everyone has to pay to use a toilet, even in the restaurants), arranged for a group photo in front of the pyramids and even gave us 5 Egyptian pounds each to give our camel attendant as a tip. At this rate I won’t have to be digging into my wallet much.

Friday, January 01, 2010



Happy New Year.  Why wait to travel - today I am off to Cairo Egypt with Tauck Tours.  Actually their tour starts January 4th but some of us wanted to also visit Alexandria so we decided to go a few days earlier and will meet the rest of our tour January 4 at the Mena House in Cairo.  All checked in for Delta nonstop JFK to Cairo and the place is full - full full full.  Almost 11 hours of flying time so it's good to pace yourself.  Window or Aisle?  The window is nice to lean on while you are folded up like a pretzel to sleep but of course some people prefer the aisle for the convenience of getting up.  I say the window and if I have to get up,  just wake up your new best friend next to you.  Getting up and walking/stretching has been limited anyway so just  hook up to your Ipod, get your neck pillow out, put the eye mask on and chill.  I still find the special ordered meals a bit better than the choice of "leather or feather" - tonight is the low sodium.  We are sitting in the Delta lounge, enjoying some wonderful snacks (maybe we can ask for a doggy bag), and a glass of wine.  Too bad the seats on the plane aren't as big as these.  Enjoy it while we can.