Monday, November 30, 2009


Even with the tail winds, we managed to arrive Barcelona almost an hour earlier than expected on Thanksgiving morning. It was still dark outside. Barcelona airport is new, modern, bright, clean and inviting to the weary traveler. Going through immigration and customs was a breeze. By 8:00am we were checked into the hotel, luggage held in the back and we are waking up with Barcelona. We are on Las Ramblas, the main street that runs from the port to Plaza De Catalunya and takes a little over 35 minutes to stroll. We are told Rambla means “stream” in Arabic. It was the drainage ditch along the medieval wall along what is now Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). Fortunately there is no sign of anything draining – except a pocket or wallet of the tourist. We see the street cleaners, sweeping up leaves with an old fashion broom and gathering them in what looks like a big plastic beach bag. No noisy leaf blowers. As people walk along the street, they greet one another with a handshake and kiss. They take time to say hello – no connection to cell phones or electronic gadgets. As a matter of fact, we see very little public use of electronics. The old gents are gathered on the park benches watching the young female executives walk by. And why not, this season’s fashion deserves to be looked at and admired. Black leggy boots healed boots go up almost to their thighs with a short skirt to meet the top of the boots, a knee length sweater and scarf. A slightly different version with boots is the skin tight, spandex, leatherette leggings, the boots and a sweater that almost covers your bottom and you have this season’s fashion. The locals love their boots. I’m jealous because my swollen feet would never fit into this stylish apparel on a good day much less just after a 7 hour plane ride. I won’t even think about a pair of those leggings.
Las Ramblas is split into various sections. The top part of Catalunya Square is very busy. Lots of lanes of traffic. This seems to be where everything meets just to go around the square and head somewhere else. The next section has bird kiosks. These permanent little structures unfold to show not only birds but also small animals to purchase as pets. Besides parakeets, doves and other birds, we saw turtles, iguanas, baby rabbits, and guinea pigs, even mice. There was every kind of cage and special food to go with your purchase. Along the street we also saw the local street entertainers getting ready. There is quite a sub-culture. They all arrive between 9 and 9:30 to set up. But before they get to business, they all greet one another; get some coffee, maybe read a page or two of the local paper. Then, with an internal clock, they know how long it will take for them to get ready and when the first of thousands of tourist that day will start strolling the street. Many of them with elaborate make up and paint, some with huge wings to put on, others with detailed props to set up – all in the hopes that tourists will choose them to throw some change into a small tin that’s just in front of them (most of these tins are tied to their ankle or goes somewhere underneath their costume). One by one they get ready. It’s really amazing to witness the transformation.
The next section is the flower market. It smells wonderful. So many beautiful flowers to choose from; a single stem, an entire bouquet or perhaps an arrangement; it’s all here. With the sun shining and clear sky, this is a perfect morning to be in Barcelona. To our right is La Boqueria Market of all kinds of produce. When in Spain, you must try the ham. It’s not just any ham but there are levels according to the quality. The black-footed ham is the best, dry and not very salty. The name comes from the pigs in the forest that feed on mostly walnuts. It’s of course the most expensive, the caviar of ham. We pass a stall with full legs of ham hanging. I ask for a slice to sample and the young man offers a slice of each of the 5 variations, saving the best for last of course. I offer to pay him and he insists not to take the money. Another stall has over 25 different kinds of olives. And another has cheese. Turn left and you’re in the fish market. The locals have the essential personal shopping bag on rollers. Bringing your own bag to the grocery store is a fairly new idea in the US (I still forget to bring them with me) but here it’s been a way of life. These look like those expandable bags with wheels you pack inside your suitcase to have handy for souvenirs that won’t fit in your luggage. But today they are full of delicious food.

Barcelona is the 2nd largest city of Spain only to Madrid. During our 2 days here, we are introduced to the city by the hop/on – hop/off tour bus. Although there are 14 works of Gaudi’s, we decided to visit La Pedera which means stone quarry because it’s made to look as though it was carved out of a huge rock. The apartment house was built for Pere Mila and his wife who lived on the main floor and rented the rest of the apartments out (one floor is an entire home). Even today, there are private residences here each with it’s own entrance. One floor is open to the public to show how people from the turn of the early 20th century lived here. But the reason for the visit it the rooftop. You get a great view of the city and have fun wondering around the different shaped chimneys (30 of them).

Barcelona is full of surprises. Walking back to the hotel the first evening, someone gives us a flyer for a concert of Spanish Classical Guitar. The church is just around the corner so let’s enjoy. It was a wonderful way to finish a busy day. Another great surprise was the “Festival of Olive Oil” we found near another smaller market. This is their 1st annual event and it was free. People were given a form to rate each of the 10 different producers of olive oil. They were from various area of Catalunya – the region of Spain we are in. I didn’t realize how different olive oil to taste until now. As a reward for filling out the forms, each of us was given a free bottle of olive oil.