Peru Amazon May 15, 2010

We arrived Iquitos, the main city in Northern Amazon, mid-day on Saturday. Known to be the largest city in the world that is not accessible by road. It’s a melting pot of various Indian groups blended with immigrants of Italy, the Philippines, China and of course Spain. Our drive from the airport to the pier introduced us to this busy, crowded, noisy, hot city. We passed a market that went on and on for many streets and a house known as “Iron House”, designed by Gustav Eiffel (Eiffel Tower) and shipped in pieces by a wealthy rubber businessman in the late 1800’s. Within minutes of leaving the dock, we were in a different world. Our 45 minute ride along the Amazon brought us to our home for the next 3 nights, Cieba Tops Lodge. The most comfortable of the 5 jungle lodges owned by Explorama. The staff are very friendly. Our buffet meals are made from local produce, fish and goes down great with local beer. Each group is assigned a guide for the duration of our stay. Willy (named after William Shakespeare – really) is wonderful. Less than an hour of our arrival, our first adventure was a hike around the jungle area of Ceiba Tops pointing out various plants and trees such as the “telephone” tree. It’s trunk has 3 or 4 hollow sections of different sizes (for different tones) provides a way for tribes to communicate. We finished at the giant Ceiba Tree for which our lodge gets its name. It stands 145 high and is about 400 years old. A magnificent tree with branches that reach so high, it seems to touch the sky. The locals believe there is spirit in everything about the Amazon. Looking at this tree, you can feel it’s life, its spirit.

Sunday - our 2nd day we left 5:45AM for our 2-hour river boat ride to the Napo River. Our first stop was to enjoy breakfast at the Napo Lodge (also owned by Explorama), more rustic and certainly gives you the sense of being in the jungle. We continued by open boat further into the jungle to yet another even more rustic lodge (ExplorTambos Camp)– about 75 miles from our “home”. We get introduced to a capybara, an aquatic rodent or the biggest rat you will ever see with webbed-like hooves. They can get up to 400lbs. This one is just a baby weighing in at about 200. It’s the camp’s pet. It makes cooing sounds and even rolls over for a tummy rub. Our short hike takes us to the Amazon Canopy Walkway where we begin our ascent into the trees. Opened in 1993 by ACTS, Amazon Conservatory of Tropical Studies, this is a research station for scientists. There are 14 platforms which are connected by suspended walkways extending about one-third of a mile reaching a height of 118 feet above the rainforest. It’s an amazing walk and gives you a vantage point to see the vastness of the rainforest. As you walk, listen and watch. Monkeys, birds, anteaters, and so much more of the Amazonian wildlife is possible. After a full morning, our afternoon included a short walk into the botanical gardens to hear about the medicinal value of many of the plants in the jungle. As the shaman spoke Spanish and Willy translated. He showed us remedies for upset stomach, arthritis, bruises, burns. The one I thought was most interesting was a specific species of a black ant about 3 times larger than our carpenter ants. Their pinchers are used as souchers for cuts. They put the ant on the open cut, the pinchers close and they separate the body, locking the pinchers around the skin.
This evening’s dinner we enjoyed an anniversary celebration of friends. The staff turned off the lights, and strolled around our table playing guitars and singing by the light of cell phones. Yes, it seems technology has invaded even the deep dark jungle of the Amazon. However, they are not as addicted of the need to be in constant contact with each other by phone. We have been here for 3 days and not once have I heard one of their phones ring. Not quite the same for the tourist I’m afraid. We even have free WIFI. It’s amazing how many tourists congregate in the lobby with laptops and cell phone. I suppose at this very minute I too am guilty.

Monday – another early morning. They say the early bird catches the worm but this morning we went out to catch the bird. Our bird watching adventure was very successful. Sightings included, the Laughing Falcon, Snail Kite, small white headed “Grampa” birds and too many to name. We’ve seen beautiful McCaws, the largest in the parrot family. This morning we saw the range from the smallest, parolet, to parakeet, to parrot to macaw. Back in time for a quick breakfast and off in the boats again to fish for piranhas. If you read my old blog from the Brazil Amazon visit, you will get an idea about fishing for these guys. Once again our group was very successful with a total of 4 (yes I caught one again). They were included on our lunch menu.

Is there a difference between the Brazil side and Peru side – absolutely. Peru means great abundance and it certainly lives up to its name. This country is the 3rd largest in South America. Almost 70% of Peru is jungle making it as accessible, biologically diverse and comfortable to a traveler of any degree. Even with most creature comforts of home, this is wild jungle. This is mother nature in all of her wonder and amazement. One comes here not to see but to experience.